Paula Cullison

Oct 1115 min read

Awesome Adventure in Scandinavia and Iceland by Paula (Giangreco) Cullison

Iceland - the Glacier Lagoon - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

Our most recent Trip of a Lifetime was conceived about 9 months ago. The question was: where to go during the hottest months in Phoenix when the temperatures skyrocket to a daily average of 112*F. Due to climate change the summers are much longer than they were 50 years ago when we moved to Phoenix from NYC.

Finding cool spots for a summer break is becoming more difficult, especially since most of Europe and Asia are dealing with ever-increasing temperatures during the summer months. And so, I decided to return to Scandinavia with an added extension of Iceland. Populations are relatively small: Sweden with 10.6 million; Denmark with 6 million; Norway with 5.5 million; and Iceland with 400,000. Scandinavia and Iceland are almost totally cashless. I had changed a limited amount of USD for Danish Kroner thinking that I would use ATMs along the way.

Bags were Packed - traveling with only carry-on for 5 weeks

photograph by Paula G. Cullison

Needless to say, much has changed in the 20 years since my visit to Copenhagen, Stockholm, Oslo, and Bergen with our daughter, Pamela. I had only been in the Reykjavik airport (1965 and 1987) and not had a chance to visit the country. This was my chance to visit Iceland. With free frequent flyer first class tickets in hand (thanks to credit card bonus miles), we departed on American Airlines non-stop Phoenix directly to London. There we changed planes for the BA flight to Copenhagen. Yes, Heathrow is a huge airport-- almost a city unto itself. Getting from one terminal to another takes a long time.

Free First-Class Frequent Flyer tickets on American Airlines - direct flight Phoenix to London

Although I thought about booking hotels as we traveled, I decided to book before we left with the free cancellation - pay at the hotel option - and selected the hotel rate which included breakfast.

Since we had 5 weeks for this trip, I planned accordingly. It's a challenge to pack only carry-on, especially when you are going to be faced with varied weather, namely the rain, wind and cold in Iceland. BUT - we did it. I always select hotels near the main train station which is also close to public transportation (buses and trams). This allows for greater flexibility, as we do not drive in a foreign country. I always request a quiet room and a room with a view. Most of the time, my request is met. Since we stayed at each hotel for about a week, we were pleased with the services provided.

Before our trip, I sent out an email (with my Letter of Introduction) to several SERVAS members in each of the cities on our itinerary. SERVAS is an international organization which was founded over 75 years ago for the purpose of meeting people as one travels. The main philosophy of the organization is travel as a way to peace. Dr. Seuss said it best: Oh, the Places You'll Go ... Oh, the People You´ll Meet. As luck would have it, quite a number responded that they would enjoy meeting us.

Our first week was spent at the Scandic Webers Hotel in Copenhagen which was situated near Tivoli Gardens. The breakfast staff was happy that I was pleased to see duck pate, croissants, cappuccino, and a variety of hot and cold offerings on the buffet. They offered a complimentary Happy Hour as well. The weather was perfect (mid 70s) and one could enjoy patio seating while eating or drinking.

Tivoli Gardens in Copenhagen, Denmark - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

While in Copenhagen we visited Tivoli Gardens with dinner in its Figaro Restaurant (mussels). Following the Royal brigade headed to Amalienborg Palace for the Changing of the Guard was fun. They step lively - for sure.

On the way to the Amalienborg Palace in Copenhagen, Denmark

photograph by Paula G. Cullison

We also visited the 17th Century waterfront area of Nyhaven, the National Museum with its collection of archeological finds, the Glypotek Museum with its collection of Middle Eastern artifacts, marble sculptures, lovely courtyard garden and an exhibition of French artists. And of course, we stopped by to photograph the famous Little Mermaid. You could say she’s the ‘Mona Lisa’ of Copenhagen.

Ethnic restaurants abound in Copenhagen: We enjoyed SSAM Restaurant for Korean and Pho Hanoi for Thai / Vietnamese. While walking, we encountered the Gay Pride Festival in the Radhus City Hall Square and chatted with several of the exhibitors.

Nyhavn section in Copenhagen, Denmark

photograph by Paula G. Cullison

The highlight of our stay was meeting the SERVAS members. Gunvor Bjerre invited us for coffee and dessert at her lovely modern apartment. After giving us the royal tour of Christianshaven, Gunvor gifted us with a book of folk tales from Greenland which she has compiled and published. SERVAS members Ingrid and Bjarne Pedersen invited us to an awesome dinner in their art filled lovely home in charming Frederiksberg, an independent section within Copenhagen. At the time they were hosting Danielle from Paris. We were also invited to the summer SERVAS gathering in the communal courtyard of Gunna Starck´s apartment complex. A dozen members attended; one had met Bob Luitweiler, who was an exchange student from Bellingham, Washington when he envisioned this international nonprofit in 1949 in Copenhagen. SERVAS is now in over 100 countries.

We took the train to Stockholm via Malmo where we changed. I guess the Danes and the Swedes decided on this arrangement. Since we bought first class train tickets, we were able to enjoy the Lounge at the train station. What a nice feature / offering! The 5 1/2-hour train ride is very scenic - dotted with green hills, heavily forested areas, farms, blue skies, beautiful billowy clouds, lakes, and ponds.

Stockholm, Sweden Harbor - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

We stayed at the Radisson Blu Viking Hotel for a week. There was a major problem with the door, so they upgraded us to a larger room. The weather was similar to Copenhagen (mid 70s) SERVAS members Jorgen and Asa Persson invited us for lunch which they served in the communal courtyard of their historic condo complex in the Sodermalm section of Stockholm where Greta Garbo lived as a child. This once poor working-class area is now gentrified and filled with cafes, restaurants, shops, public art, small parks, and galleries. There we met Daniel Tetteh, a pharmacist from Phoenix, who is a world traveler. We enjoyed sharing our adventure and look forward to seeing him when we return home. It’s a small world – after all!

Central Post Office of Stockholm, Sweden is used for government offices

photograph by Paula G. Cullison

Another SERVAS member, Margareta Soderberg, met us at City Hall and walked with us along the water of Lake Mälaren which meets the Baltic Sea. A retired teacher, Margareta now teaches Swedish to immigrants. We enjoyed coffee and pastry at Mälarpaviljongen, a popular outdoor cafe.

Before meeting her, we took a tour of the beautiful City Hall where the Nobel dinner is held. The mosaics and art works are stunning. The setting by the water is ideal for photographs. Saturday in Stockholm is the day for civil weddings which last about 4 minutes each. Seventy couples are married then. That equates to 6 hours of hearing ‘I Do’ – Ja (Yes). One could easily spend a Saturday enjoying the parade of happily married couples.

Nobel Prize Museum in Stockholm, Sweden - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

While in Stockholm, we enjoyed the excitement of the royal band. The VASA Museum with the Royal ship that sank shortly after setting sail in the 1600s is a treasured artifact. We decided to take the Hop On Hop Off bus for a tour of the city. We hopped off for a visit to the Fotografiska Museum which featured the social justice and political art of American artist Shepard Fairley who is well known for his HOPE poster of President OBAMA.

Shepard Fairley exhibit at the Fotografiska Museum in Stockholm, Sweden

photograph by Paula G. Cullison

The historic old section Gamla stan was filled with tourists. The narrow cobblestoned streets add to its charm. Gamla section houses the Nobel Prize Museum which has been enlarged and fully renovated. It´s most impressive. One could spend a whole day reading the bios of the Nobel winners and viewing their gifts of small personal items to the museum. e.g. Malala’s shawl.

Stockholm is on water, a network of 14 different islands. As you can imagine, there are plenty of bridges to cross. Walking along the waterfront is a special treat. The National Museum, located nearby, is a treasure trove of paintings and sculpture.

We spent a lovely afternoon at Prince Eugene´s former estate named Waldemarsudde which is situated on the island of Djurgarden. Resplendent with period furniture and art, fresh flowers and plants, the house and gardens are well maintained. The setting for the estate is so idyllic.

As for culinary delights, we were somewhat surprised to learn that Stockholm has many ethnic restaurants. We enjoyed Thai, Greek, and Italian food. Since the ICE Bar was near the hotel we decided to pay a visit. The temperature is set at -7*C (19*F). Attendees are provided with an insulated hooded cape, gloves and a specialty drink in an ice glass. The bar is decorated with ice sculptures and patterned ice walls.

On the train from Stockholm, Sweden to Oslo, Norway

photograph by Paula G. Cullison

The relaxing 5 1/2 - hour train ride to Oslo (across Sweden) was punctuated with green rolling hills, farms, forests, and lakes. I again bought first class seats. The hotel was right next to the train station. Our room overlooked the main square which houses a bronze tiger sculpture by Elena Engelsen. It’s very popular with the tourists. The trams and buses were steps away. Major Scandinavian cities have excellent public transportation systems.

Scandinavian trains are sleek and fast - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

The main thoroughfare - Karl Johans Gate - is now pedestrian only and filled with shops and restaurants. It leads right to the Royal Palace where the changing of the Guard takes place every day at 1:30pm. The guards (both male and female) are very approachable. I chatted with two of them.

KonTiki - Thor Heyerdahl's amazing expedition - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

The main Oslo attractions for me are the KonTiki Museum and the Vigeland Sculpture Park. When I was a young girl of 12, I read Thor Heyerdahl´s adventures which proved that the Peruvians settled the Polynesian Islands by sailing on a raft made of balsa wood. Needless to say, I marveled at his adventurous spirit. Perhaps that was the beginning of my love of adventure - traveling to new places. Although we didn´t have much time, we also visited the outdoor Norwegian Folks Museum primarily to see the Stave Church.

Vigeland Sculpture Park in Oslo, Norway - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

In Oslo, the Nobel Peace Museum and the new National Museum are located next to each other. The new and very impressive 13 story Munch Museum, designed by the Spanish firm of Estudio Herreros, houses 4 versions of The Scream and over 23,000 of Edvard Munch´s works including 1,183 paintings. It is located along the waterfront Promenade and near the main train station. Nearby are the equally impressive Opera House designed by the Norwegian architectural firm of Snohette and the new Bibliotek, the main public library, designed by Lund Hagen and Atelier Oslo. These are three fairly new architectural master works. Since performances at the Opera House were sold out, we took the awesome extensive tour which included the backstage workings, set designs, etc. Security at all of the museums has been increased since a theft in 2006.

The Scream by Edvard Munch - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

At the Botanical Gardens, which was opened in 1814 and hosts a diverse collection of over 4,500 plants, we met a group of female University of Oslo students who were from several countries (Germany, the Netherlands, Spain, Greece). We learned that their classes are taught in English and tuition is free for international students. However, the acceptance rate is 5% and students who apply must have a 3.0 GPA.

University of Oslo students enjoying a picnic in the Botanical Gardens

photograph by Paula G. Cullison

During our visit, Lisa Kara Froyland and Fredrik Felberg, two of the SERVAS members, were to be married at a country church in the small town of Jevnaker, which is located an hour north of Oslo. They invited us to the church ceremony. We took the train from Oslo to Roa where we had a nice conversation with the Station Master whose family had emigrated from Albania. He summoned a taxi for us, as Jevnaker was another 20 minutes away. Being invited to a wedding was such a special treat for us. The aura of this historic church was magnified when the organist played Pachelbel’s Canon and the attendees sang the Norwegian translation of Morning Has Broken.

Lisa and Fredrik's Wedding in Jevnaker, Norway - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

(taken while standing on a bench with support from Tim)

I was honored when the groom asked me to take the group family photo after the ceremony. This necessitated that I stand on a bench. The female minister, Lena Ros Matthiasdottir, who officiated at their lovely wedding ceremony, drove us to the bus stop in Hønefoss where we caught the bus back to Oslo. Along the way she gave us a brief history of her family’s roots which dated to the Viking era. What a wonderful day!

View from our room at the Stalheim Hotel in the Naeroydahl Valley

photograph by Paula G. Cullison

Before our tip, I bought tickets for the Norway in a Nutshell Tour from Oslo to Bergen with a stopover for one night at the historic Stalheim Hotel. There we had another awesome room with a view; this time of the awe-inspiring Naeroydahl Valley. The NiN tour goes through Flam to Voss on the Flambana Railway. Undoubtably, this is considered to be one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. The waterfalls, especially the one surrounding the myth of the forest spirit Hulder who seduces men, are spectacular. For the tourists, a female student appeared from the waterfall mist and sang. This tour, which includes the fjord cruise, is so well orchestrated – Not to Be Missed.

Norway in a Nutshell with a stop in Flam

Magic Hotel in Bergen was a bit far from the train station and it was raining when we arrived, so we took a taxi. That evening we were invited to the home of SERVAS members Arne and Monika Natling for dinner. It was pouring. We took the local bus. Arne met us at the stop and walked us to their lovely home which is set on a hill with 360* views. They were also hosting Michele, a SERVAS member from Australia. We had a most enjoyable time. Monika prepared a traditional fish soup which was superb. Arne is a doctor specializing in geriatrics and Monika is a speech therapist. They both love music. Monika played the piano during our visit.

Bergen, Norway: Harbor view - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

The next day, we visited the home of composer Edvard Grieg in Troldhaugen. The tour included a piano concert which was performed by Fabrice Bligoud Vestad (a French Norwegian pianist now living in Paris). His four selections by Grieg were breathtaking and performed flawlessly. The estate, located in an idyllic setting, is very well maintained. One can only imagine Grieg composing his Peer Gynt Suite in the small cabin on the property.

Composer Edvard Grieg's Home in Troldhaugen, Norway - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

That evening, as per Arne´s recommendation, we ate at the Hagelin Sostrene Fish House, established in 1927 by the Hagelin sisters. It was located on the same street as our hotel. According to the story, even King Olav ate there!

Our stay in Bergen was all too short. The newly expanded airport now hosts a number of international carriers and numerous flights. We flew Iceland Air to Reykjavik.

Not wanting to drive, I booked a 7-day trip with BusTravel Iceland (small group of 11). The tour encompassed Iceland’s famous Ring Road Route #1 which is 821 miles, and the Snaefellnes Peninsula which is 60 miles. The trip included hotels with breakfast. There are several tour companies offering similar tours.

Vala was the guide and driver for our group of 11

Our guide Vala was awesome. She is a dynamic lifestyle coach. The guide for the ice caves was delightful. He was a former Ballroom Dancing Champion for Iceland. Without his help (mano a mano), I definitely would not have made it. Petur, our guide for the Snaefellsnes Peninsula, was very pleasant. All three were knowledgeable about the history of Iceland, its fascinating folktales, and facts about the sights. The route around the country is marked #1; there is no other main road. The country is a vast open space, as there are virtually no trees. The population of Iceland is 400,000 with about 240,00 living in greater Reykjavik and 20,000 in the largest northern city of Akureyri. There are almost 1 million sheep grazing freely in this stress-free environment. Here and there one notices the unique breed of Icelandic horses, about 80,000 of them, and some livestock.

Seljalandsfoss Waterfall Iceland - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

The Icelandic scenery is spectacular with an estimated 10,000 waterfalls, glaciers, geysers, lagoons, black rock pebbled beaches, hot springs, volcanic rock formations, and magnificent unspoiled vistas. Gullfoss, the Golden Falls, has a drop of about 105 feet, is one of the most famous waterfalls and is located along the Golden Circle. We also visited Godafoss, the waterfall of the gods, which is on the Diamond Circle near Lake Myvtan. Also, noteworthy and awe-inspiring are Skogafoss and Seljalandsfoss. You can actually walk behind this waterfall, but you will get wet.

A few of the million stress- free sheep in Iceland - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

Ice Diamond Beach (Breioamerkursandur) is adjacent to the Jokulsarion Glacier Lagoon. Ice chunks wash ashore from the lagoon and glitter like diamonds on the black sand. It is amazing.

The Snaefellsnes Peninsula is adorned with rock formations looking like hearty characters transformed by the wind and the sea, as well as the ravages of time.

Snaefellsnes Peninsula Iceland - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

It’s a scenic wonderland for sure. As you can guess, tourism is the number one industry in Iceland; then comes fishing and aluminum smelting. Water power for electricity is cheap; the natural hot water springs heat homes and businesses through an extensive network of underground pipes. The only disappointment was two cancellations of our whale watching trip due to rough waters. Also, the puffins left two days before we were scheduled to see them. Mother Nature knows best.

Icelandic Horses are a special breed - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

I will mention here that The Game of Thrones and Frozen, as well as numerous other films, have selected Iceland for its scenic beauty. I have yet to watch either.

The capital city of Reykjavik is very walkable, as it is fairly small. The open and inviting nature of its inhabitants is its main characteristic. Even the major pedestrian street is painted in gay pride colors. It leads to the striking architectural beauty of the Hallsgrimskirkja church which stands 244 feet tall with a 360* view from its tower.

Rainbow Street (Skolavordustigur) in Reykjavik, Iceland - photograph by Paula G. Cullison

During our visit, the art museum and photography gallery showcased local artists. Their Harpa Concert Hall hosts a variety of programs, including an annual jazz festival. The city has opened several upscale food halls which feature many ethnic mini-restaurants. We were attracted to Funky Bhangra at Posthus which offers many culinary delights of India. It is operated / owned by a darling couple: Yesmine Olsson, highly acclaimed cookbook author and TV chef, and her husband Arngrinur Fannar, a cyclist and former concert manager, who is Icelandic. Talk about fusion! It certainly is a small world after all.

Funky Bhangra owners Chef Yesmine Olsson and her husband Arngrinur Fannar in Reykjavik photograph by Paula G. Cullison

One afternoon, we took a walking tour of the city which was facilitated by a local entrepreneurial historian. His friendly manner and extensive knowledge of Norse folklore and cultural peculiarities made for a few interesting hours.

A shout out goes to SERVAS member Kristofer Jonatansson, who gave me good advice even though he would not be in Reykjavik during our visit.

As we reflect on our trip, we are reminded of the openness and welcoming nature of the Scandinavian and Icelandic people. From start to finish, our adventure was a sheer pleasure filled with awesome sights, great people, wonderful experiences and now treasured memories.

KUDOS to Iceland for having recently elected a female President, Halla Tomasdottir. Iceland touts the first woman in the world to have been democratically elected as President -Vigdis Finnbogadottir, who served for 16 years (1980 – 1996).

And so, our adventure came to an end and we took the Flybus to the airport. Interestingly, we were the only two people in the Saga Lounge at Reykjavik airport which hosts 800 passengers daily. Apparently, our flight at Noon was one of a very few at that hour. The morning rush had ended and the evening rush had not yet begun. This was not the case when we arrived at Chicago’s O’Hare. The United Airlines Polaris Lounge was packed. The agents kindly sat us at the coffee table in the entry way. For this flight, we bought some miles, so as to have first class seats. This was a good way to end our incredible 5-week journey.

A huge Thank You (TAK) to everyone who made our trip so extra special. When one travels internationally, one learns a great deal about other cultures. Here's to the next Bon Voyage! Oh, the People You'll Meet ...

Dinner at the lovely home of Ingrid Pedersen and Bjarne Kjaer (Copenhagen - Frederiksberg district) Here also with Gunvor Bjerre who gave us a most interesting walking tour of Christianshaven and invited us for dessert & coffee. Daniele was visiting from Paris.